Proper care of your skin

Those who have never had skin issues or were blessed to even have beautiful skin for most of the lives, are now desperate to address the skin wrinkles and many run to the dermatologist feeling a lot of regret. Although genes certainly play a role in one’s skin condition, decades of neglect, or even mistreatment of their skin is most frequently the source of their skin problems.  Many say that if they knew then what they know now, they would have done things very differently and taken better care of their skin.
There are numerous explanations for unhealthy skin but the main causes tend to be an unhealthy diet, an ineffectual cleansing routine, and poor lifestyle choices.

“Is it too late to save my bad skin? I never paid much attention to my skin because I never had any skin problems. I never bothered with skin care products because I didn’t need to. Now I’m seeing wrinkles and spots forming, I guess it’s just too late to anything about it.” If this sounds like you, you may want to keep reading.Never fear, because there is still much that you can do to help your skin. If you are lost in sea of product choices, you can still be assured cosmetic dermatology can offer many alternative treatments.

Not surprisingly, many adults rarely consult a dermatologist that is until AFTER the signs of aging have appeared. Wrinkles, of course, are the chief complaint. Your skin may feel  rough to the touch, and even sore, especially in drying environmental  conditions such as on an airplane or in a low-humidity environment like the desert or high-altitude cities. In the winter, when indoor heating is used, your skin gets even more dehydrated, making the wrinkles look worse. Your skin may catch on rough clothing. You may also notice wrinkles on your neck or others parts of your body.

Poor Diet
Your skin is a living, breathing organ of the body and it needs proper nourishment and hydration to look and feel its best. When your skin is deprived of the necessary vitamins, minerals, and nutrients that it needs it is unable to functional at optimal levels and the structure slowly begins to break down. This breakdown results in dry skin, blemishes, discoloration, wrinkles, and premature ageing.

In order to avoid this breakdown you need to feed your skin a varied mix of important nutrients each day. Ingesting sufficient amounts of vitamin A, a nutrient that can be found in citrus fruits and orange vegetables, can help you avoid dry skin and blemishes. Eating foods rich in the vitamin B group like brewer’s yeast or breads, or taking a vitamin B group supplement, can help you ward of skin discoloration, dry skin, dermatitis, shallow skin, and premature ageing.

To help discourage wrinkles, pale skin, sun damage, blemishes, and other unhealthy skin symptoms, nutrients like calcium, protein, iodine, niacin, folic acid, iron, and copper are very important to a healthy diet. Get these effective skin helpers by enjoying foods like mild, eggs, cheese, chicken, fish, leafy vegetables, fruits, and grains.

Poor Hygiene
Another common cause of unhealthy skin is poor hygiene. Whether this involves the failure to clean your skin often enough or the use of an ineffective cleansing routine, built-up dirt and grime can lead to blemishes, premature ageing, shallowness, dry skin, and wrinkles.

When your skin is not properly cleaned on a regular basis, dirt, pollution and other harmful substances are allowed to build up on your skin and clog the pores. Clogged pores result in breakouts, dry skin, and the reduction of cell renewal.

To get the most out of your cleansing routine make sure that you wash your skin twice a day, everyday. Also, make sure that you are using an effective cleanser like a soap that is specially formulated for deep cleansing. Make sure that you use gentle pressure when cleaning the skin, do not scrub or pull on the skin since this can result in tiny tears that are susceptible to irritation and infection. Finally, always follow your cleansing routine with a hydrating moisturizer that also contains a sunscreen in order to hydrate your skin and protect it from sun damage.

Bad Lifestyle Habits
Even if you enjoy a healthy diet and pay special attention to your skin care regime you can still be sabotaging the health of your skin by indulging in unhealthy habits. Habits like sun tanning, smoking, choosing fizzy drinks or sodas over water, and wearing heavy makeup can lead to the development of unhealthy skin. Avoid excessive sun exposure, always wear sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of at least 15, stop smoking and avoid those who smoke, drink plenty of water, and choose light cosmetics if you want your skin to stay young and healthy looking for years to come.

Chemical Peels and Aging

Chemical peeling is emerging as one of the most effective ways to combat skin aging. Chemical peels are one of the most frequently performed aesthetic procedures in North America. Its popularity continues to grow because of the versatility of conditions where chemical peels are of significant benefit. In addition to the topical preparations such as over-the-counter and prescription creams, chemical peels are one of the earliest forms of treatment adopted by many patients. At the same time, there is much confusion and misunderstanding surrounding chemical peels that prevents more of us from enjoying their undeniable benefits. Let’s go through the important facts about chemical peels and their uses in modern skin care regimens.

Categories of Chemical Peels:

1. Superficial chemical peels:

Broadly speaking, chemical peels can be divided into several categories based on the depth of penetration in the skin. Superficial chemical peels create an injury to the epidermis - the outermost layer of the skin. As such, they are recommended for the treatment of skin conditions that primarily affect the epidermis. Conditions such as acne, actinic keratosis, superficial (epidermal) melasma, mottled skin pigmentation, superficial wrinkling as well as mild photo-damage can greatly benefit from properly selected and applied superficial chemical peels.

* AHAs

Some of the most common examples of superficial chemical peels include a variety of alpha-hydroxy acids
(AHA,) salicylic acid as well as low concentration trichloroacetic acid (10% - 25%.) The most commonly used superficial chemical peels are members of AHA. Alpha-hydroxy acids is a group of compounds derived from food products including glycolic (from sugar cane,) lactic (from sour milk,) malic (from apples,) citric (from fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine.) Glycolic acid (GA) is a clear winner amongst the AHA as its small molecular weight allows it to penetrate into the skin and exert its influence on living and non-living (outermost layer) cells. These properties account for the popularity of this product in both cosmetic as well as medical preparations.

In low concentrations, 5 - 10%, GA reduces cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin. This action promotes exfoliation of the outermost layer of the skin accounting for smother texture following regular use of topical GA. This relatively low concentration of GA lends itself to daily personal use as a monotherapy or a part of a broader skin care management for such conditions as acne, photodamage, wrinkling as well as selected cases of melasma.

In higher concentrations, between 10 and 50%, the benefits of GA are more pronounced but are limited to temporary skin smoothing without much long lasting results. This is still a useful concentration to use as it can prepare the skin for more efficacious GA concentrations (50 - 70%) as well as prime the skin for deeper chemical peels such as higher concentration trichloroacetic acid.

At higher concentrations, 50 - 70% applied for 3 to 8 minutes under the supervision of a physician, GA promotes separation between the cells and can be used to treat acne, photodamage (such as mottled dyspigmentation, superficial melasma or fine wrinkles) as well as superficial scars. The benefits from such short contact application depend on the pH of the solution (the more acidic the product [lower pH,] the more pronounced the results,) the concentration of GA (higher concentrations produce more vigorous response,) the length of application and prior skin conditioning such as prior use of topical vitamin A acid products. Although single application of 50 - 70% GA will produce beneficial results, multiple treatments every 2 to 4 weeks are required for optimal results.

* Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a member of beta-hydroxy acid group. Because of its improved lipid solubility compared to the AG, it is particularly effective in the treatment of acne. In addition, it is not as inflammatory and some physicians use it extensively for the treatment of melasma. Low concentration trichloroacetic acid (10% - 25%) can also be used to treat the conditions affecting superficial epidermis but its use is limited to experienced physicians as more detailed patient selection and application care is required. As such, physician supervision is required for all peels except low concentration glycolic acid (up to 35%) and salicylic acid peels (below 20%.) This precaution is necessary to prevent inadvertent worsening of the skin condition as well as scarring.

Although in some instances only one superficial peel can accomplish desired effects, in most cases a series of peels is recommended to achieve optimal results. Superficial peels are an excellent way to introduce oneself to the rejuvenating power of these common aesthetic procedures. Done properly and with care, superficial peels are very safe treatment options for some of the most common conditions affecting facial skin.

It is important to understand that superficial chemical peels are peels with similar risks and side effects as other peels. Some of the side effects of superficial chemical peeling can include hyper- or hypo-pigmentation, persistent redness, scaring as well as flare up of facial herpes infections (”cold sores”). Caution needs to be exercised with some patients, particularly those suffering from rosacea or eczema. These patients are prone to skin irritation and even the mildest peels can cause injury to the skin. Fortunately, in most instances, such injury can resolve with time and optimal skin care. In cases of melasma, extreme caution needs to be taken, as it is possible to worsen this common and unforgiving skin condition. Any significant redness of the skin must be avoided.

Author: Mariusz J.A. Sapijaszko, MD FRCPC (Dermatology)

Treatment for Dry, Sensitive Skin

If you suffer from dry, cracked or sensitive skin – skin that easily reacts to chemicals and temperature fluctuations - then keeping your skin hydrated is essential. If you live in a humid climate where natural moisture is more prevalent, then you are halfway there to better skin. On the flip side, if you live in a high-altitude or desert climate, artificially creating humidity in your home may be the second best option. Since many of us can’t just pick up and move to a new seaside location, using a humidifier in your home or bedroom while you sleep can do wonders for your dry, cracked skin.

While drinking more water will help hydrate your skin to a degree, it isn’t the cure-all for sensitive skin issues. However, the water you use to bathe is very important. Bathing with hard water (which contains increased amounts of calcium) can contribute to dryness and redness. Reverse osmosis water filters will help convert hard water to soft water, if it fits in your budget, it could be a consideration. Water temperature also matters. Dermatologists warm that very hot water temperatures, such as 104 degrees F, can dry out your skin and lead to redness. Gentle hydrotherapy, meaning moderate temperatures with little fluctuations are best for your skin type.

When choosing a special spa treatment, do so with care. Be wise in selecting spa and beauty treatments like exfoliating massages, loofahs, acid-peel facials, and hot steam rooms, which can all strip oils from sensitive, dry skin. Scalding temperatures, intense treatments, running from hot saunas into wintry snow is good for those with resilient skin - not for you. For those with especially sensitive skin, even perfumed bath oils and massage products can be irritating. Aromatherapy massages may be counterproductive if the oils used cause any form of burning or redness. Even getting a manicure or pedicure can cause hyper-reactions when the acetones in nail polishes and removers are irritating.

If you have had serious reactions to spa treatments in the past and need a gentler alternative, consider thalassotherapy. Thalassotherapy was developed in seaside towns in Brittany, France during the 19th century. Based on the belief that the properties of seawater have beneficial effects upon the pores of the skin, trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium, and iodide found in seawater are believed to be absorbed through the skin. The therapy is applied in various forms, as either showers of warmed seawater, application of marine mud or of algae paste or the inhalation of sea fog. Spas make hot seawater and provide mud and seaweed wrapping services.

Very popular throughout Europe, thalassotherapy treatments are used for relaxation, stress management, muscle and skin restoration, and to fight cellulite. If you cannot afford the actual spa treatments, home products containing seaweed or algae can also be effective in hydrating dry, sensitive skin. Another great option to provide more oil distribution to dry skin is massage. Massage is also great for eczema. A recent dermatological study at the University of Miami showed that children with severe dry skin were treated with moisturizer and massage therapy improved more compared to those who were not massaged and were treated with moisturizer alone.

So these are simply guidelines to use when choosing products and treatments to help alleviate your dry skin conditions. As with all hydrotherapy treatments, it is important to limit your immersion in the water to less than one hour so as not to impair the skin barrier. And when purchasing products, always be sure to read the ingredient list for potential irritants.